Wednesday, August 10, 2011

Chanel Jacket: Part 3: Fitting with the professionals

I wasn’t feeling confident about the idea of cutting out my Chanel jacket last night so I brought my muslin to work for some professional fit advice. The fact that I haven’t done so before now is kind of amazing considering I work for a jacket manufacturer and my closest coworkers are tech designers and pattern makers, whom I have told all about this project. One of my lovely cubicle buddies helped me fine tune my muslin and has promised to help me re-evaluate after I make the adjustments to the muslin.

These next pattern adjustments will include:

  • Lowering the armhole ½” (1/2” higher than the original pattern) on one side, and back to the original a/h on the other side for comparison.
  • Letting out the side seams ¼” each for an added 1" circumference
  • Letting out the sleeve seams 1/8” at the bicept for an added ¼” ease
  • Reducing the shoulder seam length ¼”
  • Reducing the cross back ¼” on each back armhole
  • Pinching out and transferring excess armhole ease to the shoulder princess seam.

I’m feeling good about these adjustments. Wish me luck!

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