Saturday, July 23, 2011

Chanel Jacket: Part 1: Dreaming & Scheming

Let’s pretend that I haven’t neglected my blog for months, and jump straight into my current project obsession: the Chanel Jacket.

There are a great many sources of inspiration and information that have helped fan the flames of my desire:

- There is the Go Chanel or Go Home blog, to which I hoped to become a member so that I can add my own pattern alteration experience to this archive.

- Threads Magazine issue121 from 2005, the "Inside a Chanel Jacket" article by Susan Khalje has invaluable information (I had to call Tauton press to order a back issue since they appear OOP when the quantity drops below 20). **hint** One might be able to find pics online of the article if one is clever.

- Book: Great Sewn Clothes (from Threads) - covers the Chanel jacket construction details and includes a handy diagram of a Chanel jacket pattern.

- Book: Couture Sewing Techniques by Claire B Shaeffer, has much the same info as the Threads book, but goes into greater depths about many couture techniques.

- The amazing Signe Chanel documentary…. Especially the section on the braid maker.

- The runway show archives at

- Ebay… real Chanel jackets for resale often come with great detail pictures!

- Erica Bunker’s version of the Chanel jacket comes up quickly in a google image search. Erica’s blog is my go to whenever I start a new vogue pattern because she makes many of the same pattern alterations that I do and to the same pattern size.

- Marina is the couture blogger for Burdastyle and Frabjous Couture, took an in depth Chanel Jacket sewing course with Susan Khalje and shared many details from the class on her blog.

- You know that feeling you get at a store…"I could make that for way less!” I even had that thought in the CHANEL store in Soho. I tried not to look like I was dissecting the garments while I admired the lovely trim and buttons, but you know I was.

So, of course I have launched my own Chanel jacket project.

My Chanel Jacket:
Fashion Fabric: Silk boucle from Chic Fabrics on 39th between 7th and 8th.

I think I got this fabric for $6/yard... I only spent $40 total on fabric, and the lining was pricier than the boucle. Lining Fabric: Silk jacquard lining (also from Chic Fabrics) for $10/yard. This will be a summer jacket.

Trim: I intend to make a fancy braid with threads from the boucle I will also use a selvage or bias cut fringe as a base and I bought some nifty lace weight yarn from Patons that has a bit of sequins in it to include with the braid for a touch of glitz.

Pattern: V7975, short version with no overlap.

Pattern Issue: This pattern does not have a 3 piece sleeve. I WANT a 3 piece sleeve. None of the other patterns with a 3 piece sleeve are in print. I even enlarged the diagram from the Great Sewn Clothes book and printed it out to scale to see what I could glean about the fit and attempted to redraft a sleeve for my pattern taking these details into consideration.  My obsessing about the darn sleeve is a bit of a sticking point but I really want to get going on this project.  I may just keep working on the sleeve pattern puzzle for a wool boucle winter version and stick with a 3/4 length sleeve for this summery version.

1 comment:

janul said...

Cool! I´m looking forward to seeing your version for sure :)

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