Restless Grace

Knit Musings in the New Year

2012-01-18T13:22:00.000-05:00

Hmmmm....

via vogueknitting.com via style.com

This lacey leaf capelet (left) reminds me of my all time favorite Alexander McQueen runway look (right) .

It's no surprise to me that this is one of my all time favorite Vogue Knits designs. Being a new yaer and all I think it is time for me to give it a go. but should I make a ponchshawl, or blow it up in tribute to the late great designer? I have some Patons Lace in black and also in beige.... Which should I make this in?

Resolutions: 2012

2012-01-09T13:17:00.000-05:00

I haven't blogged much at all this year. I could resolve to blog more, but that would be tempting fate. If I can achieve even 2 of my goals below, I think I'll be satisfied.

1) Take it slower. Don’t try to accomplish as much. Quality over quantity.

2) Finish what I start. Also what I have already started. Conquer the UFOs.

3) Document my projects; if for no other reason than to have a record of what and when I started something. Figure out a way to get acceptable self portraits (very important).

4) Exercise more. Go to Yoga and Spin.

5) Read more books.

6) Sleep more. Go to bed a little earlier.

7) Call my friends and family more often. Be a nicer person.

My Design Sketch - Polka Dot Skirt

2011-11-07T15:11:00.001-05:00

BurdaStyle Sewing HandBook

2011-11-02T14:28:00.000-04:00

The Burdastle Sewing Handbook is finally out! I can't wait to get my greedy little hands on my very own copy. FYI, my design is the black and white polka dot skirt right below the blue circle in the upper left corner. When I get my garment back I'll try to get a little photo shoot in it for the blog.

REFINED DESIGN CONCEPT

2011-10-28T14:55:00.000-04:00

Halloween

2011-10-21T11:46:00.000-04:00

I haven't made a halloween costume in years. Previous costume attempts included a generic tunic used for grecian party and a fairy (of sorts) for halloween, and a pirate costume cobbled together from my first corset attempt. I have stashes of historic costume patterns and I could love any terrible movie or show as long as the costumes are amazing. (Boardwalk empire is my current favorite). I love the idea of making costumes, but unless I have a reason to make them, I don't. This year I let the Burdastyle/Bernina Halloween costume contest pass me by again. But then yesterday my company annownced it's own "Hant Couture" halloween costume contest. The deadline is week from now, and I don't even need to take pictures to upload them. Well, inspiration struck me immediately and I then went out a lunch to source fabrics. Here are some of my inspiration pics.

New Project: Fall Sweater

2011-10-03T13:57:00.000-04:00

I'm starting a sweater! ***
The pattern is Wisteria from Lion Brand.
The Lion Brand Blog is hosting a KAL and I decided I need a new sweater for this fall and winter.

The yarn is Amazing, and the colorway I chose is Violets:

Pretty, huh?

Wish me luck!

***Disclaimer: Ok, actually I have a bunch of sweaters still on the needles but I'm a sucker for this style, which does not already exist in my closet, and I had a 20% off coupon at the Lion Brand yarn studio so I really can't fight fate****.

**** Disclaimer: I voted for this pattern in the KAL voting process. Sometimes fate needs a helping hand.

I Love Marc Jacobs, but…

2011-09-28T12:41:00.000-04:00

I could soooooo knit this!

Pithy instructions: hand dyed DK weight, knit in the round, 1x1 rib for 1” brim, switch to bigger needles and hold the yarn doubled , knit till long enough, decrease rapidly & bind off, add a pom-pom (if you’re into that sort of thing).

And this!

Pithy instructions: 2 strands sport weight (different colors) held together or marled dk weight. Appears to be knit flat so use a tubular cast on, k3, p2 for 1 inch, some sort of faux cable/rib for about 8 inches ( at the same time gradually decreasing 3 sts each side), then 5-6 inches 1x1 ribbing, bind off, sew seam.

Pictures via shopbop (a great source for sewing and knitting inspiration)

Chanel Jacket: Fitting with the professionals

2011-08-10T22:53:00.000-04:00

I wasn’t feeling confident about the idea of cutting out my Chanel jacket last night so I brought my muslin to work for some professional fit advice. The fact that I haven’t done so before now is kind of amazing considering I work for a jacket manufacturer and my closest coworkers are tech designers and pattern makers, whom I have told all about this project. One of my lovely cubicle buddies helped me fine tune my muslin and has promised to help me re-evaluate after I make the adjustments to the muslin.

These next pattern adjustments will include:

Lowering the armhole ½” (1/2” higher than the original pattern) on one side, and back to the original a/h on the other side for comparison.
Letting out the side seams ¼” each for an added 1" circumference
Letting out the sleeve seams 1/8” at the bicept for an added ¼” ease
Reducing the shoulder seam length ¼”
Reducing the cross back ¼” on each back armhole
Pinching out and transferring excess armhole ease to the shoulder princess seam.

I’m feeling good about these adjustments. Wish me luck!

Reality Check

2011-08-07T21:00:00.001-04:00

Recent FOs

Friendship bracelet (swap); Not sure how long it should be, but I made it 6" long plus ties. I’m supposed to mail to my swap partner in Australia tomorrow. I finally have a reason to mail something for personal reasons to another country! I am so tickled, it’s silly.
Slim line T-shirt; This is a procrastination/instant gratification project that I cut out Thursday and whacked out on Saturday. The pattern is by Angela Kane and is supplemented by her newest video series. I love her videos. They are a bit long because she doesn't edit away the majority of the working steps. You see her go through every step, and during the processes she mentions a lot of handy tips that probably wouldn't make it into a shorter video. I've gleaned a lot from watching her work. Plus, her voice is so soothing and encouraging. I used a 100% cotton XL t-shirt from MM that he didn’t wear because it had a pocket (I unpicked the pocket, ha!) I used the original shoulder seams, neck binding, sleeve seams and sleeve hem, so all I needed to do was serge the side seams & set the sleeves. Because the t-shirt was so long it turned out more like a t-shirt mini-dress. It's perfect for hanging out around the house in. I had my BF try it on for size and I think the shape is a bit to slim in the shoulders and the armholes a bit deep for his liking. I 'll try out the classic t-shirt next for him.

Current WIPS (that I have worked on in the last week)

Knit nautical top (franken-knit from a this pattern); 85% complete – just need to finish the front. So close to done that I am almost completely bored. I CANNOT start another knit/crochet project until this is wearable.
Raglan sleeve t-shirt; Burdastyle 01/2011 120. Cotton cashmere rib knit - I've had this cut out for months but finishing the sleeve hems came first and my twin needle has been very very finicky and that honestly killed my sewing mojo. Last night I got it out and made it work. Assembling the rest of it was quick and all that is left now is the hem.
Chanel Jacket; the muslin is done. I need to finish refining the pattern and then cut out the fashion fabric. For the first time in my life I am terrified of cutting fabric and am procrastinating with the above and below items. I have been telling myself to get on with it for a week now and I find myself making excuses to do other things instead, like the above mentioned recent FO's.

Desperate Start-itis (things I am forbidden to start until one or more of the above are done)

Another tiny pocket tank (#3) with slight FBA. Loud floral rayon up-cycle!
Lion Brand Mesh Raglan Pullover. I have the yarn! It was frogged from another desperately ill-begotten project (crochet bathmat… yeah… BATHMAT) I must redeem the yarn. I also need to get it off the floor of my craft cave where it taunts me.
Tiger Lily Tank by Lion Brand. Yarn was on sale, it was a heat wave, I am weak, and I still want to knit it.
Bombshell dress (Burdastyle/Craftsy/Gretchen Hirsch). I totally impulse bought this course since. Who knows how long that sale price will last!? It was the promise of FBA handholding for that bustier that did it, and the thought that I could look like Joan Holloway at a barbeque by my birthday if I start NOW.

Feeling overwhelmed and I haven’t even mentioned my UFOs.

Hand Rolled Scarves - Hermes

2011-08-07T12:49:00.000-04:00

I would love to try this technique. I have some paneled fabrics in my stash and a few scarf sized silk pieces that I painted for my textile painting class.

Chanel Jacket: Part 2: Muslin Making

2011-07-30T17:24:00.000-04:00

I am currently knee deep in my Chanel Jacket Muslin fitting.

Recap: Pattern: V7975, short version with no overlap.

Initial Pattern Issue: This pattern does not have the 3 piece sleeve that I want and none of the other patterns with a 3 piece sleeve are in print. I even enlarged the diagram from the Great Sewn Clothes book and printed it out to scale to see what I could glean about the fit and attempted to redraft a sleeve for my pattern taking these details into consideration. I was obsessing a bit much about it so I asked my sewist friend Sara of and Sparrows and Honey Bees for her advice. She assured me that I 3/4 length 2 piece sleeve would be fine and appropriate for a summer jacket. I'm still thinking about it, but I'm probably going to take her word for it and keep working on the sleeve pattern puzzle for a wool boucle winter version.

Muslin #1: Like a good little apprentice couturier, I made a muslin. I started with size 14 according to my high bust and I knew I would need to lengthen it so I added 1” to the bodice and sleeves prior to cutting the muslin. According to my research the classic Chanel jacket has very high armholes, so I also raised the armholes 1 inch (but traced out the original armholes for comparison) and only inserted one sleeve. I sewed it up with 1" seam allowances and tried it on. The armhole fit is good although the bicep may be a tiny bit snug (still contemplating that). I'm happy with the way the back fits. The one issue I have is with the front. Obviously, I need a FBA.

Muslin #2 I followed Fit For Real People’s approach to the princess seam FBA. FFRP offers 3 options for FBA on the princess seam: adjust the front piece, adjust the side front piece, or if the adjustment is very minor one can just add to the princess seams. For larger adjustments (ahem DD over here) FFRP has you choose based on the how far apart or close together ones bust apex is. The idea being that the princess seam should fall on the apex. My bosoms must be pretty well centered because they were already on the princess seam (minus the 1” FBA needed). Unlike Erica Bunker. who adjusted the front piece, I opted to modify the side front piece. I spread the bust 1” for my DDs. I was rather proud of my pattern modification and re-cut a side front and front muslin piece and attached them to the half of my muslin that did not have a sleeve.

Result: the front piece is WAY TOO LONG, causing the CF to hang down and out. Because I spread my side front 1" I ended up adding 1 ½” length to the front piece which caused the front edge to hang down and swing away, and caused the CF to look curved rather than straight. Bummer.

Problem solving: I pinched out 1” at the CF and tried to determine how to adjust the front piece to reduce the front edge length only but I was stumped. FFRP does not address the princess droop for an open jacket. It only offers a solution for a dress which is to hack off any excess length at the bottom of the front panel, which is an inelegant solution (IMHO) that would not work for me here. I though real hard and as the hour of my bedtime drew nigh I began to fear going to sleep frustrated. In a moment of desperation I undid the princess seam on the other half of the muslin that had the original pattern and let out my seam allowances (1” muslin seam allowances are a MUST folks!) so that my remaining SA was ½” from the hem to the bust point and then tapered into the original seam. It worked. I had my 1” added width and My CF edge is straight. My hem is straight(ish) This FBA is way easier than the FFRP version.

I think I'm going to let out the side seams below the waist about 1/8" and pinch in a bit of the front princess seams above the bust before I finalize my pattern revisions. I'm also still trying to decide about the sleeve length.... 3/4 length or long sleeve. My BF likes the long, but as a summer jacket a 3/4 length would be just fine and I could always make this again as a winter jacket with a black wool boucle and long sleeves. I still want to try to figure out the 3 piece sleeve pattern (or find a copy of the Sandra Betzina pattern).

Thoughts on my progress so far are welcome!

LFS: Beverly Trimming

2011-07-27T09:00:00.002-04:00

Beverly Trimming is one of the very few fabric and sewing notions stores in Bay Ridge. They are best known for their large selection of vintage buttons. Even though I work in the middle of the garment district I'm delighted to have a store like this in my neighborhood so I have options on the weekend when I find myself in need of supplies. Truthfully, I would love to shop there more often since I like to support local businesses (one of the reasons I don't buy much yarn online) but usually the garment district shops are most convenient and well stocked.

Vogue 1175: Donna Karan Bubble Dress

2011-07-25T09:00:00.001-04:00

Over the last few years I have found that my impulse projects are generally my most successful projects. Doing the research gets me excited about the project and helps keep me motivated to finish (deadlines don't always keep the mo-jo flowing). I always check out what other people have done with a pattern on pattern review and it helps me plan and anticipate problems. I also love going out into the Garment District to purchase all the materials for a project at once.

Last September, my college roommate got married in Nova Scotia. I don't get many opportunities to wear, let alone make a fancy dress, so this was the perfect excuse to make a pattern I had bought on impulse with no idea if I'd ever have a good reason to make it. The dress turned out so great. I loved making it and didn't run into any problems due to my research and good luck. So here is my super late project blog post.

Pattern Description: Vogue 1175
Close-fitting, above mid-knee length, pullover, lined dress has contrast bodice back, seam detail, pleated front and back, side front in-seam pockets and puffed hem.

Pattern Sizing: 14-16-18-20
I chose the size 14 based on my over bust measurement and did a full bust modification to make this work, which I will go into detail about below. First I traced off the size 14 bodice front and back (and CF skirt) to made a muslin to see if I was even close to making the right choice. It fit pretty well around my shoulders and back. I was definitely mashed in the front, but that was expected. I also saw that the my bust point is at least an inch lower than the pattern, which is no surprise since patterns are drafted for for someone 5'6", not my 5'10.5". I had read in the other reviews that the neckline and sides of this pattern are kind of low, but on me it didn't appear to pose a serious threat to my dignity (although I might have found a skimpier bra) and I decided to leave it alone.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes, except that I added an additional dart at the center front as part of the FBA.

Were the instructions easy to follow? Yes, but I wish the diagrams were bigger, especially for the construction of the center front. I would recommend making a complete mock up for anyone who is unsure of their skills or how the style is supposed to come together.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
I like how unique this design is. It was a puzzle to put together and I had fun making it. I don't usually go for voluminous bubble styles, but I felt really special wearing it. I really love that it has pockets!

I did not like that the fabric requirements listed was 60" wide. I found my fabric in the NYC garment district so I had lots to chose from, but I found that there really is no such thing as 60" taffeta. I was worried about having enough to fit the large pattern pieces. As it turns out, even if I had made a larger size, I would not have needed fabric that wide. My fabric was 54' and it was plenty wide.
Fabric Used: Silk taffeta, silk organza (to underline the back bodice), silk charmeuse (back bodice) , silk cotton batiste (lining). I found some really great sales on 39th St and was able to get all my fabric for under $40!

One thing I wish I had done was to serge finish the seam allowance of the bottom hem edge of the taffeta. With all the handling of the dress it had unraveled quite a bit by the time I got to the hem.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:

I made a full bust modification following TiaDia's lead. I did mine slightly different though because I am tall and the bust point was already too high on the unmodified pattern. For my FBA I added a second pleat below the original which had the added benefit of lowering the bust point.

I was a bit stumped on how to modify the lining since the obvious slash and spread to the CF pleat would interfere slightly with the construction which already was tricky due to the lack of clear diagrams, but it worked out fine in the end.

My only other modification was that I eliminated the CF seam on the front skirt piece.
Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? I won't sew it again because one party dress in this style is enough for my closet, but I definitely recommend it if you like the style. It wasn't terribly difficult to put together and I am immensely pleased with the results.
Conclusion:
I made a this party dress for roughly $40, not too much labor, I had fun making it, had more fun wearing it, and I got lots of compliments on my sewing skills. I win!

Chanel Jacket: Part 1: Dreaming & Scheming

2011-07-23T16:08:00.002-04:00

Let’s pretend that I haven’t neglected my blog for months, and jump straight into my current project obsession: the Chanel Jacket.

There are a great many sources of inspiration and information that have helped fan the flames of my desire:

- There is the Go Chanel or Go Home blog, to which I hoped to become a member so that I can add my own pattern alteration experience to this archive.

- Threads Magazine issue121 from 2005, the "Inside a Chanel Jacket" article by Susan Khalje has invaluable information (I had to call Tauton press to order a back issue since they appear OOP when the quantity drops below 20). **hint** One might be able to find pics online of the article if one is clever.

- Book: Great Sewn Clothes (from Threads) - covers the Chanel jacket construction details and includes a handy diagram of a Chanel jacket pattern.

- Book: Couture Sewing Techniques by Claire B Shaeffer, has much the same info as the Threads book, but goes into greater depths about many couture techniques.

- The amazing Signe Chanel documentary…. Especially the section on the braid maker.

- The runway show archives at style.com.

- Ebay… real Chanel jackets for resale often come with great detail pictures!

- Erica Bunker’s version of the Chanel jacket comes up quickly in a google image search. Erica’s blog is my go to whenever I start a new vogue pattern because she makes many of the same pattern alterations that I do and to the same pattern size.

- Marina is the couture blogger for Burdastyle and Frabjous Couture, took an in depth Chanel Jacket sewing course with Susan Khalje and shared many details from the class on her blog.

- You know that feeling you get at a store…"I could make that for way less!” I even had that thought in the CHANEL store in Soho. I tried not to look like I was dissecting the garments while I admired the lovely trim and buttons, but you know I was.

So, of course I have launched my own Chanel jacket project.

My Chanel Jacket:
Fashion Fabric: Silk boucle from Chic Fabrics on 39th between 7th and 8th.

I think I got this fabric for $6/yard... I only spent $40 total on fabric, and the lining was pricier than the boucle. Lining Fabric: Silk jacquard lining (also from Chic Fabrics) for $10/yard. This will be a summer jacket.

Trim: I intend to make a fancy braid with threads from the boucle I will also use a selvage or bias cut fringe as a base and I bought some nifty lace weight yarn from Patons that has a bit of sequins in it to include with the braid for a touch of glitz.

Pattern: V7975, short version with no overlap.

Pattern Issue: This pattern does not have a 3 piece sleeve. I WANT a 3 piece sleeve. None of the other patterns with a 3 piece sleeve are in print. I even enlarged the diagram from the Great Sewn Clothes book and printed it out to scale to see what I could glean about the fit and attempted to redraft a sleeve for my pattern taking these details into consideration. My obsessing about the darn sleeve is a bit of a sticking point but I really want to get going on this project. I may just keep working on the sleeve pattern puzzle for a wool boucle winter version and stick with a 3/4 length sleeve for this summery version.

Bodice Contour Guides

2011-07-12T11:07:00.002-04:00

Bodice Contour Guides
Originally uploaded by wzrdreams

When using a bodice sloper to create a new bodice style (example: low neck, sleeveless top) trace the sloper and draw in your new style lines. Anywhere the style lines crosses a set of contour line you will need to reduce the ease indicated by the contour lines. You do this by slashing to the bust point and closing up the excess ease between the contour lines where your style line is. There is also excess ease at the side seams which you would eliminate for close fitting bodice styles such as bustier tops.

Super Nova Scotia Wedding

2010-10-15T19:01:00.001-04:00

Back in the beginning of September, I went to Nova Scotia for my dear friend Amber's wedding. I had an absolute BLAST. I'll just share a few of the highlights that I actually have pictures of.

There was ocean views outside of the cottage I stayed in.

There was dockside yoga every morning (including the morning of the hurricane that knocked the power out for all of the day before the wedding), a candle lit rehearsal dinner, and tipsy mid-night photo sessions on the eve of the hurricane with new friends who were totally game when I suggested that we pretend we are dead!

The highlight of the weekend was when Amber got married
and I got to wear (coughshowoffcough) this dress:

It's the dress I made specifically to wear to Amber's wedding. I am mighty thrilled with how it turned out. I would go one, but it deserves it's own post so I will go into more detail on that later.

Avacado Star

2010-10-14T22:56:00.003-04:00

Way back in March, I received a huge compliment that came with a wicked awesome box of free yarn! Lion Brand Yarns is without a doubt one of the main reasons I am such a crafty knitter today. I was very surprised and delighted to learn that not only are paying attention to what people are doing with their yarns, but they really appreciate their customers on a personal level as well.

So what did they send me in this awesome swag box of yarn goodness?

A congratulations card with a picture of knitter on it, which lives in my cubicle at work.
2 Skeins of Woolease, Navy and Burgundy - my go to yarn for gifts and for washable knits.
2 Skeins of Lion Organic Cotton, Vanilla and Cypress - I think I'll make some luxe washcloths with these.... not dishtowels mind you! For the bathroom.
2 Skeins of LB Collection Pure Wool. The Lion Brand team has noticed that I like to dye yarn and as soon as I decide on a color scheme (oh the endless choices) that is going to be a fun experiment.
2 Skeins of LB Collection Organic Wool, Avocado and Toffee. Toffee is not one of my favorite colors, but I think it will be fun to try to over dye it with purple and let some of the brown show through. The Avocado is a gorgeous shade of green that isn't really anything like the refrigerator we had in the 80's. It's a bright, cheery shade that looks like it belongs on a tree at the end of summer. To date, this is the only skein I've knit with from the swag box, but I have plans for the rest!

So the hat.... It's a Marsan Watchcap. I had to knit it longer than the pattern called for because the super stretchy rib would pull a shallower hat right off my head. This yarn is perfectly suited for this pattern. It makes a nice squishy rib that is dense enough to keep the wind out. I made the man size and it stretches REALLY big to accommodate even the roundest bowling ball shaped head I can find.

Also... that cowl.... that's Lion Brand Yarn too. It's Amazing. I modified it from, wait guess..... a Lion Brand pattern! It's the Port Chester Cowl but I made the entire thing in ribbing so it would be reversible. I also used and strand of Puno alpaca instead of 2 strands of Amazing. I switched back and forth between Grey or Blue alpaca held with either Wildflowers or Arcadia. It's a stripey 2x2 rib and it's long enough to wrap double around my neck or drape down loosely. I like the amazing yarn... I keep thinking about what else I'd like to do with it. I think it looks great held double with a solid; it mutes the color changes even further.

Brooklyn Bridge

2010-09-25T16:38:00.003-04:00

Shot with my vintage medium format stereo-optic camera on the Brooklyn Bridge

It is not necessary to have a viewer to see these in 3D. If you can successfully view a a "magic eye" poster, you can see this. Relax your eyes and enjoy!

Burdastyle Book

2010-07-07T22:46:00.004-04:00

Since a bunch of other people have blogged their good news I guess I can announce that I'm involved in the upcoming Burdastyle Book also. I'm actually pretty excited about it. The project required that I submit sketches and fabric swatches and gave me some limitations (and deadlines!)... which kinda makes it like being back in design school. But it's better than school work because strangers will actually be able to see my design in PRINT for years to come. That's wicked cool if you ask me and I don't mind a little ego stroking motivation.

So, I'll be making a skirt, and I'm in the muslin making stage of things as I write this. Burdastyle sent me fabric that is pretty much spot on what I had in mind for my design. I would love to show and tell more about the process of the project, but showing isn't allowed. I'll be sure to post updates when the eventual release date approaches. Wish me luck!

Beating the heat on my "balcony"

2010-06-06T11:34:00.002-04:00

Crochet Lace Tank Front
Originally uploaded by wzrdreams

Pattern: Airy Lace Shell from LionBrand.com
Yarn: Cotton-Ease (Lake), 3 skeins

I made the size Medium, which has a 40" finished chest. That size called for 4 skeins, but I had some extra odds and ends floating around my stash and this was definitely a stash-busting project so I decided to hold off on getting a fourth skein until I knew if I actually needed it. Since I modified the front neckline to be lower than the back neckline, I was able to just squeeze this out of my 3 skeins minus the DC border along the bottom edge.

To modify the front neckline, I simply started it right after I finished the armhole decreases.

This pattern couldn't have been easier. It was well written, and it was a very quick, satisfying project. There is also a version written for the Lion Brand Collection Cotton-Bamboo, and I think versions written for Microspun and also one of their organic cottons.

Built By Grace Dress

2010-05-04T22:30:00.001-04:00

BuiltByGraceDress1
Originally uploaded by wzrdreams

Here is my latest instant gratification project! It seems to be the only kind of project I cam able to actually finish these days. Even now I have a stack of garments that are all 99% done and lack only buttons or a bit of embroidery. Silly me. I am such a sucker for the quick and colorful, but who can blame me?

This is the Simplicity 2865, Built by You, Jersey dress.
I found the fabric on 39th street at my favorite LFS and it cost $4 a yard for 60 wide cotton jersey. I fell in love with the fabric immediately and that is always a good sign. Sure enough, 48 hours after purchase, this sweet and simple shift was complete. My only pattern mod was to lengthen the torso 1". I also used the serger to apply the bindings in one pass. There are more pics on my flikr page for interested eyes.

After McQueen

2010-02-15T22:37:00.002-05:00

Happy New Year! (Vogue 2984)

2010-01-06T22:09:00.006-05:00

AK Jacket Front
Originally uploaded by wzrdreams

Picking up some OJ on the way to New Years Brunch.

Vogue 2984 - Klein Jacket pattern. Self lined, shawl collar wrap jacket with slit pockets and back/side peplum.

The pattern ran small, but I read up on it on patternreview.com before hand so I was prepared and cut a jacket 2 sizes larger than I would have otherwise. I also make the armhole slightly bigger at the suggestion of a previous pattern reviewer and my pattern maker (I work for ladies suit company as a tech designer and using the cutting tables is my favorite job perk), who happened to walk by while I was cutting this out. He suggested that I trim the armhole 1/4" and then sew the armhole seam at 3/8" instead of the prescribed 5/8". I took his advice and am quite satisfied with the fit of the armhole.

It’s completely self lined, which makes it very warm, but one thing I would do differently is change the sleeve lining to a thinner material, the double layer of wool gets bulky in there. This was also the project that I learned you should preshrink even your woolen fabrics. Steam press!

Ms. Green (blue)

2009-12-13T12:20:00.002-05:00

Mr. Green (blue)
Originally uploaded by wzrdreams

Well here's a recent FO that sat in my UFO pile for too long; elastic in the waistband, only needing a moment at my sewing machine and 4 waistband stitches left to close. Sometimes, my laziness is maddening. ANYway. I went to Miami and wanted to have these cozies to lounge around my parent's apartment in. Aside from the bulk of the seams, they are extremely cozy. Cotton ease is very squishy. I think if I were to knit another pair of lounge shorts (and I doubt that I will) I would probably go for a pattern without much in the way of crotch seams. Actually, if I found the right yarn at the right price, I could be tempted to knit the Unmentionables from Knitty, but it hasn't happened yet.

Miami/ AquaArt & Art Basel

2009-12-08T20:54:00.004-05:00

Soooo... I went to Miami on Thursday to visit my parents and go to Art Basel and the satellite shows. Thursday night was the opening for Aqua Art in the Wynnwood neighborhood of downtown Miami. My friend Laura had a booth with the Taylor & Mackenzie Gallery so I was pleased to show my support and hang out with her and my dear friend Melanie at the Vangaurd Gen Art Party. The party was super fun; tons of people from God knows everywhere, dressed to play, dance, mingle, drink, and look at art. I gotta say, I was very impressed with the show. This wasn't no art school mandatory. Even though I was wearing some beautiful/painful 4 inche heels, I made it my mission to see everything in the space (which was considerable) and I am happy to say I succeeded my mission.

Krause Gallery had 3 of my favorites from the entire show: Jordan Eagles who was making bloody art before vampires where sexy again, Rob Tarbell who paints with smoke, and Stephan Zirwes who hangs out of a helicopters to take pictures that make one feel very small.

Also, notable for those who like Francis Bacon and can spot his inspiration: Oscar Bernal (Volakis Gallery). Do check it out.

Friday I spent sleeping in very late, playing with Marmalade (squishy kitty) and I went to a complete oratorio performance of George Frideric Handel's Messiah, featuring the Boca Raton Symphony with my parents at the Miami Cathedral. It was quite impressive, and quite long.

So...... Art Basel. Yes. I went on Saturday... and I succeeded in seeing everything there as well. It was oh-my-aching-feet large. Huge. I saw all my favorite blue chips (Francesco Clemente, Lucien Freud, Joan Miro, Andy Warhol, Jean Michel Basquiat, David La Chapelle, Alexander Calder, Ghada Amer, yada yada yada...) and that was only about a 10th of the entire show. By the end, my mind was mush and my dogs were dead. So I bought a few discounted art magazine and met up with Mel and Laura again at their friend Leo's house for the rest of the night. Good times.

I was really lucky that my mother was generous with her car and didn't hassle me about whether or not I remember how to drive (duh... it's like riding a bike) and that Miami is so easy to get around, and the roads are in such great condition! I love that town. I definitely want to go again next year.

2009-11-29T13:26:00.003-05:00

Danny Roberts' work is quite inspiring to me. His character sketch book specifically has been a big motivator to me to draw more often. Thank you Danny for sharing your creative spirit.

My Bloody Vampire

2009-11-04T22:18:00.015-05:00

Did you not see the knitty suprises yet? Well, in case you don't live in my universe, the geek knitters are fah-reaking out over My Vampire Boyfriend (rav link) socks by Kate Ath erley.

The socks are bloody gorgeous. They have hearts (!) and cunning little bite mark cables (!) and the cable patterns are all charted out and incredibly visual, thus easy to follow! As if these socks weren't pretty awesome by themselves, they are also inspired by the Vampire hottie craze. You know what I'm talking about. Bill and Eric from the Southern Vampire Series & True Blood, **coughEdwardCullencoughTwilightcough**, and the Salvatore bros from Vampire Diaries etc. are some recent additions to a catalogue of sexy, but tortured (and sometimes evil) undead lovers... Angel & Spike from Buffy the Vampire Slayer, David & Michael in the Lost Boys, David Bowie as John in The Hunger, Gary Oldman as Bram Stoker's Dracula, and the list goes on. Just thinking about all the vampire boyfriends out there is some fun, which only makes this pattern more tempting.

My vampire boyfriend comes at an excellent moment, not only for knitting & pop culture, but for me. I am currently season 6 deep in my first ever viewing of the Buffy the Vampire Slayer series. I have no idea why I didn't watch when it originally aired. I must have thought it looked corny and I didn't even give it a try. Why, oh why? And now, it's over 10 years later and I am hooked. Not only am I watching Buffy, but I am watching the Angel spin-off congruently. Disc for disc. Yup, I'm a geek. Luckily for me, I have not 1 but 2 friends who own the entire box set of both shows and who are generously loaning them to me as I work my way through the series. Consequently, I'm getting lot's of knitting and sewing done while watching, but not so much blogging. But I digress. At the season 6 point in BTVS, **WARNING, 9 YEAR OLD SPOILER** Buffy is having a clandestine affair with Spike, whom I've been smitten with ever since he summed up her relationship with Angel way back in season 3 in that awesome monologue which ends; "I may be love's bitch, but at least I'm man enough to admit it."

So... Spike, aka William the Bloody, is MY vampire boyfriend.

Prog shot:

Amazing how motivation works, huh? After a quick bit of thought, I decided I could make this happen on the CHEAP. I don't normally stash red yarn fingering, but I did have several skeins of Lion Brand Sock-Ease in my sock stash. After nixing the Cotton Candy I decided to give the Rock Candy a go with my stash of Tropical Punch & Cherry Koolaid & red food coloring, and voila!

Before & After:

Bright red like an open gash in some places, and dark like a scab in others with varying shades of coagulation in between. Here's a few pics from the quick and easy dye session:

First, I soaked the skeins over night in my crock pot with a 1/2c vinegar and a enough water to cover them. The next morning (10/31) I refreshed the water and added a splash of fresh vinegar and turned the crock up to high. As the water heated up, I mixed up my Koolaid/coloring in about a cup of boiling water. I also made myself a french press.... caffeine and kool-aid dyeing... an excellent start to a saturday the morning.

Doesn't the dye look like fresh blood? I love it.

At this point I was having a pretty good time (caffeine was kicking in).

Once the dyes is poured carefully over the yarn, and stirred gently to make sure to strikes through the entire dye bath, I put in the lid and walked away for an hour. After a while the water was pretty clear so I turned off the heat and let it sit for a bit with the lid off before I took it out to rinse.

I noticed that the bottom skein still had some grey areas were the dye didn't strike, so I threw it back in the crock pot with the rest of my red food coloring. I think I need to get a big enamel pot one of these days for dyeing yarn. The mini crock pot just ain't cutting it.

Up next (I hope)... playing catch up.

FO: Jumbo Cowl

2009-10-06T20:04:00.002-04:00

Jumbo Cowl 4
Originally uploaded by wzrdreams

I'm not gone. I'm just hard to pin down.

My current Obsession

2009-08-02T00:37:00.003-04:00

Full Front
Originally uploaded by wzrdreams

I know that I have been absent for a while. It's all on account of all the fantastic sewing I've been doing. And, I have been reading the Sookie Stackhouse series on the train this summer (done with box set [#7] now) and so I haven't had as much productive time on the knitting front (although my wip list has grown!). Sewing at home means that I am making progress on my inaugural viewing of the Buffy the Vampire Slayer series (season 4 & Angel season 1, simultaneously).... I think you have an idea of how busy I've been in my at-home time. Lot's of FOs deserve a blog post, but if you are looking at flickr or patternreview.com you probably know what I have accomplished this summer. Not to mention all theblog worthy start-itis that I've suffered, or the vacation I took, or the family wedding I went to with my crazy, adorable parents... no I just posted the cat video. Patience/laziness is my virtue!

Quick Sketch with Colored Pencil

2009-07-17T20:30:00.003-04:00

gj_MIN_2009.7.13
Originally uploaded by wzrdreams

After a lapse in practice, I spit this one out and I'm pretty pleased. It's not exactly spot on the inspiration picture (I think I made her look even younger) but I like her petulance.

My lil Bro

2009-07-04T13:21:00.003-04:00

Look who's visiting!

A few late night stitches

2009-07-03T21:30:00.007-04:00

The sewing mojo has certainly been flowing lately and I've had a few happy successes. The key is to pick the right size (always dicey), the right fabric for the pattern. It has been a challenge and a pleasure to work with fine fabrics.

Wrestling with thread tension on some very fine silk & cotton batiste. French seams were a necessity.

Gathering on a floral print rayon. I think I prefer to machine baste rather than hand baste the gathering stitches because it makes the final stitching easier and the gathers more even.

Elasticized shirred panel on stretch silk charmeuse.

Practice makes perfect, and sometimes things are easier than they look.

Farrah Fawcett

2009-06-29T17:28:00.003-04:00

gj_FarrahFawcett_2009.6.28
Originally uploaded by wzrdreams

Brief Peak

2009-06-19T22:21:00.003-04:00

SilkKercheif1
Originally uploaded by wzrdreams

I know I haven't posted in FOREVER... Not apologizing for that because I have been very productive and very un-photogenic and now I am going on vacation with only the hope that I continue to be productive in my relaxed state. This is a pic of my 2 most recent and gratifying FOs. Silk Kerchief and my Tulip Burda WOF Blouse. The Blouse will have it's own post in the (hopefully) not to distant future.

gj_CharlotteGainsbourg_2009.05.15

2009-05-16T00:11:00.002-04:00

gj_CharlotteGainsbourg_2009.05.15
Originally uploaded by wzrdreams

My latest attempt.

Experiment / Excercise

2009-05-08T20:18:00.007-04:00

So, my friend and I have a started doing this thing were (all done over IMs) we pick a picture out of the inter-web and then we spend a little time drawing it and when time is up (whenever that is) we show each other what we've done. We compare and talk about it a bit and it's a nice way to end the evening (it's better for the brain/eyes than watching the Colbert Report until midnight anyway). So far, we've only done something like 6 sketches. My sketches are usually completed first (I bore easily.... yet I am easily amused) and I spend a ridiculous amount of time snapping pics and uploading (must get scanner out) while my friend finishes. Anyway, he suggested that I post the latest one to my blog (but I doubt he reads....).... and since a few of my internet friends have also mentioned that they liked my watercolors from a WHILE ago, I thought I should try to add this medium to my restless over-sharing.

Wiksten Skirt

2009-04-19T11:40:00.009-04:00

Sewing Success!

The pattern is the "tulip Skirt" from the premiere issue of Stitches magazine. It's designed by Jenny Gordy of Wiksten Made. Jenny posted some helpful corrections on her blog and when I emailed her with a construction question she got back to me right away. Thanks Jenny!

Modifications: (a) I made the largest size and I lengthened it by 1 3/4".

(b) Since I like my seams to be nice and tidy on the inside, and since I don't have a serger, I tested out a french seam (too bulky and didn't press well) and a flat felled side seam. I really like the way the flat felled seam looks in the linen, and it lies very flat so that's what I went with.

Top stitched hems.

Mussel shell buttons.

I picked these out at a store around the corner from MJ Trim. I like MJ, but their button selection isn't really the best or biggest.... MJ just has the nicest store. I don't want to give them my business just because they are so well known and have slick store, so I always try to check out other stores in the garment district. You can usually find even better prices and comparable selection if you look around.

I love my automatic button hole maker.

I always test it out before hand to practice getting the placement right.

I think I did pretty good on this test.

Here is the finished skirt.

I wore it in Friday, which was a gorgeous day here in NYC. I met up with some of my knitting friends in Bryant Park at lunch and I got one of them to snap this picture. This skirt is very comfortable and easy to wear. I think I'll make this pattern again, but I might eliminate the waist ties and add a button to the waistband instead. This version was has a hook and eye at the front waistband, which is a little awkward for my taste. Over all, I am delighted with this skirt. I love it when sewing projects go this well. It is so reassuring and motivating.

Still waiting for spring

2009-03-16T21:01:00.006-04:00

So that pretty, lovely, hand dyed merino became this soft and comfy hat!

Pattern: Simple Pleasures Hat

Yarn: 1 skein LB Collection Superwash Merino DK (hand-dyed by moi)

and way less than 1 skein of Rowan Kid Silk Haze, color: Midnight

Needles: Sz 8 16" bamboo circulars

My only modification was to increase the number of CO sts to 96, so that it would be super relaxed and slouchy on my 23" head, and when I got to the first decrease round I decreased evenly down to the required 88 sts. Knitting this hat was very relaxing and pleasant. It definitely lives up to its name. I was a little worried that I wouldn't have enough of the DK merino because I only dyed 1 skein but it turned out that I had enough left over for a beautiful lace swatch. The colors go together perfectly with the KSH that has been hanging around my stash forever. This hat also compliments my Ice Queen (another recent, un-blogged FO).

I've been so productive knitting lately (not so much with the sewing unfortunately) that I kind of have a back log of stuff that needed to get photographed and posted. This weekend The Boy was sweet enough to photograph what must have seemed like a whole trunk show. I don't think I'll get around to blogging about everything... I don't think I'm that disciplined in the blogging department yet, but I do want to share some of my recent favorites.

This one makes me super happy.

Pattern: #22 Lace Shawl, Knit.1 Spring 2008

Yarn: Universal Yarns; Eden Silk, 3 skeins in Brick.

Needles: Sz 7 Addi Turbos.

I am freak'n thrilled by this shawl. It is pretty, practical, and it was way easier to knit than it looks and it was fast and fun. (Except the edging. That was boring, but over soon enough).

The chart is available for free download on the Knit.1 website. Not the lace edging... need the magazine for that (although there is an error in the edging anyway that's pretty easy to spot).

I did modify the chart somewhat because I noticed that it didn't match the magazine picture. Basically, I made all the double decreases centered instead of left leaning and I changed some of the side lace decreases to always face inward (ssk on left edges, and k2tog on right edges) so that they flowed into the lace pattern.

FYI: the error in the edging is that the giant YO is miswritten as a M1.

It just doesn't really work as written.

Something else that makes me happy:

An awesome mostly stockinette sweater, that I didn't have to knit!

My knitting buddy Laura knit this gorgeous Sunrise Circle Cardigan and as she was sewing up the first seam had to face the awful truth: this cardigan had sleeves meant for monkeys. They were WAY too long! So after marinating in time out for a whole year, she gave to me! I have monkey arms! And I can't believe it, but only a month later I finally seamed it up and stitched down my first hem.

I think I did a pretty decent job at it if I must say so myself. The sleeve hems took 1 evening and the body hem took 2 evenings. The buttons & loops were super quick.... which makes me think it has something to do with the fact that this is a free knit, and I have relatively little work invested in it. How else can I explain letting my Retro Swing Jacket languish without proper closures?

There's more that I've knitted and finished and photographed, but I have a TV date with Anthony Bourdain and even MORE knitting. Ciao!

First Hand Dyed Yarn

2009-03-13T08:08:00.007-04:00

1 skein of Lion Brand Collection Super-wash Merino DK.

I used my yarn swift at its biggest setting to unwind the skein of yarn into a BIG hank.
Dyed using Jacquard Acid Dyes; Sage (green) & Perwinkle (blue) & 6 packets of Grape Koolaid.
I used these instructions from Dhartma Trading. It was so easy, and I am so delighted with my results that I know I will be dying and over dying yarn again.

Joe Jones, Self Portrait 1933

2009-03-08T19:42:00.003-04:00

Joe Jones, Self Portrait 1933
Originally uploaded by wzrdreams

One of my day dreams is to have known my grandfather personally.

Missoni Love

2009-03-01T15:01:00.003-05:00

I found my favorite show this season. Missoni.

Everything is so cosy, beautiful and feminine.

Everything about the look appeals to me personally.

The colors are great - perfect for me!

I love the layering of different textures.

I'll be wearing multiple hand knits this fall for sure!

I love the dramatic swing of the dangling scarves.

I've been smitten by Rodarte for a while now, but this take on large open lace is even more appealing. Certainly more wearable for "everyday".

And I love the cowl inspiration.

This looks sort of like a mobius, but not.

The best I can tell, it's knit flat with one end seamed to a side, but what's going on with the other end? Is this more of a hood than we can see?

FINISHED!

2009-02-16T18:58:00.002-05:00

Cable Luxe Side
Originally uploaded by wzrdreams

The end of the project kind of snuck up on me in the last hour. I started to get a sick kind of roller coaster feeling as I was binding off... a combination of excitement and nerves. Then it took me most of yesterday afternoon to sew it all up neatly.

I love it! Cozy and warm and it fits me better than any other sweater I own. I'm glad I like it because I've been knitting this thing since OCTOBER, and that's a long time to find out if a knit makes you happy or not.

As happy as I am with the results, I can't help but analyze the silhouette of it in comparison to the Pringle of Scotland sweater that it is inspired by. I've had the picture (grabbed from NewYorkMinknit) as my desktop image for 5 months now as motivation and I am so very tempted now to knit another one, in a bulky yarn with the exaggerated swing shaping and more accurate cables. Knowing what I know now, and using a bulkier yarn it would go much faster. Tempting, but I think I'll hold off on that idea until next fall.

First Try-On

2009-02-03T20:55:00.002-05:00

First Try-On
Originally uploaded by wzrdreams

The thing about knitting that I don't like, is that you have to commit yourself to the project before you can ever try it on. Luckily, if you don't like it you can always rip it out and reclaim the yarn (not so with sewing... ask me how I know this and you will hear a sad story about crepe backed silk satin by BF got me in Como) BYGONES. ANYWAY. It appears that the cable Luxe Tunic will fit me in the way I was hoping. Now all that is left is the sleeves. I am dragging it out though because I will miss knitting this sweater when it is over (I mean, done). Reaching this point of success has also given me license to cast on for 2 (yes TWO) lace projects which I am currently cheating on the CLT with.

Fresh Start

2009-01-25T22:41:00.011-05:00

So far, I have been making pretty good on my resolution to sew more.

The first week of the new year I made a skirt:

Pattern: Sidonie; www.burdastyle.com (no longer free L)

Fabric: 2 yards blue wool, purchased for $7/yard at a little shop in the garment district, and white nylon lining.

I modified the pattern slightly, adding 2 inches in length at the hip curve and since I am a bit hippy, blended a smaller waist (44) to larger hip (46).

After I seamed the skirt together, I basted the lining to the outer fabric and tried it on to assess the fit. Even with the bias taken into account I could see right away that it was too big. This is a re-occurring problem I have with patterns and it drives me INSANE. I measure myself carefully and honestly, pick the correct size according to my measurements, even make adjustments, and it’s too big. GRRRRrrrr! Muslins are an absolute must, but since I haven’t made much with the burdastyle patterns yet I am taking it slowly with the simpler patterns in order to get a better understanding of my size in these patterns and the typical wearing ease. With the Sidonie skirt, I simply re-stitched the seams 3/8” in from my first seams which was the difference between sizes and it fit much better.

The next weekend I finished up a slightly more complicated sewing project that I’d been taking my time with:

Pattern: Liz Blouse; www.burdastyle.com (purchased – worth it)

Fabric: Striped shirting that I’ve had in my stash since grad school. It was given out by the design department and I was told it was remnants from Marc Jacobs – so I squirreled it away like any fan-girl would, dreaming of the perfect shirt to make with it. Well, the time to make things happen is NOW.

This pattern is very straight forward, with shoulder to hem princess seams which makes a custom fit only a matter of patience and time. I originally cut a muslin in a size 44. When I tried it on, I noticed that the armholes where huge (which I had also noticed with my still un-photographed Anda Dress) and the upper back was too big. I had chosen the size based on my full bust rather than my upper bust (and I’m a D cup) so I re-cut the pattern blending the 44 hip on front and back pieces, to the 42 upper back and front. I also extended the front bust curve a little bit to give my chest some more room. Then, even though I was terrified of cutting the fabric without a second muslin, I went ahead and did it… I decided to get over my fear of failure and disappointment in favor of learning from experience. Also, I knew that my first fit was close enough that it was unlikely to be too much of a disaster if it didn’t go perfectly.

I took my time sewing, pressed the seams out and checked the fit before pinking my seams (I don’t have a serger) and then I hit a mental block when I got to the stand up collar. I had built up in my head the fiddly-ness of sewing in collars and so I set it aside until I could devote time and attention to it. That took a month – most of December. When I finally bit the bullet and faced the “hard part” I realized that the burdastyle instructions, while vague, did prescribe a simple method of finishing the collar: topstitching. No hand stitching! It was easy and fast and that gave me the get-to-it I needed to finish the rest. I even had fun making the button holes (practice on scrap makes pretty perfect). Alas, my button hole thread doesn’t match my top stitching thread, but at least the colors work with the fabric. I am thrilled with the fit and my results.

Buoyed by my successes with the Liz blouse and the Sidonie skirt, I whipped up an instant gratification sort of project:

Pattern: Cheeky Panties; www.burdastyle.com (free!)

Fabric: Stretch lace and elastic all came from my stash (probably purchased from the dollar table at Walmart years ago)

I didn’t modify the pattern at all (size 38) because I wanted to test the fit as is. Don’t fix what might not be broken, right? Well, the fit is perfectly cheeky and I am well covered. After I wear them a few times I’ll decide if I want to tweak the pattern for size.

I didn’t add elastic to the legs because it wasn’t necessary for fit, the fabric isn’t fraying, I’d like avoid the panty line thing, and I have limited selections of lingerie elastic in the stash anyway. I just zig-zagged the crotch sides and it’s fine. I didn’t bother with finishing the end of the crotch piece either because it doesn’t fray. If they fall apart in the wash I won’t care, this was basically FREE project start to finish.

Up next: MORE UNDIES. I have some old lingerie patterns that include bias cut panties. I've already cut a muslin out of some violet colored organdy (polyester I think, old stash scraps). If they turn out awesome (hope and pray) I will splurge on silk organza or georgette. I'm thinking Jean Yu for inspiration.

On the Knitting front:
I am still making progress on my Cable Luxe Tunic (see previous post). The KAL has been very motivational and informative. I am this close to finishing the front (sewing is stealing my time) and then I’ll only have the sleeves left. Also on the needles: second half of my Flow tank (rav link) in Lion Brand’s Recycled Cotton, marine blue. LOVE this yarn. Really, I know I’m a bit of LB fangirl, but this stuff is perfect for summer and I am California dreaming. I’ll pick this project up for subway knitting as soon as I finish my current pair of subway socks.

CLT Back Blocked

2009-01-23T00:02:00.002-05:00

CLT Back Blocked
Originally uploaded by wzrdreams

I blocked the back, and as one can see, the shape has relaxed a lot and this pleases me very much. It did grow 2 inches longer then necessary, so when I finish the front (sooooon) I will likely rip back a bit.

Cable Luxe Back Progress

2009-01-13T00:33:00.002-05:00

Cable Luxe Back Progress
Originally uploaded by wzrdreams

I just bound off the back and I think I'm going to like it! Now on to the front. I really need to pick up the pace on this so I can wear while it's still freezing.

Note to self (or likewise interested knitters): I bound off on the RS, in pattern (rib), purling the slipped stitches.

2008 Wrap Up & 2009 Resolutions

2009-01-02T15:34:00.012-05:00

Well, 2008 is over. I am very much looking forward to the new year. I know the outlooks is somewhat bleak, but I am grateful for a fresh start. I am resolving to move forward with optimism and enthusiasm.

Looking back, I see that I spent A LOT of my time this year knitting. (mosaic below)

I did not spend that much time sewing. I found sewing to be tedious, time consuming and my failures where disappointing. I have realized 3 things about sewing: 1) it can be tedious and 2) it is a lot harder (compared to knitting) to fix mistakes, and 3) most patterns need alterations in order to fit (me) properly, so muslins are a must... even more so than a knit gauge swatch.

I am thrilled with my knitting output this past year, however I want to increase my sewing output. That is a resolution for 2009; to sew more & to get better at pattern alterations. Also, I am resolving to finish a project before I take on another. I tend to be quite fickle with my attentions because I have so many ideas that I want to try. So I will attempt to keep the number of WIPS consistent.

Challenges I would like to take on this year:

knit a lace shawl (in lace weight yarn)

color work (finish Confectionary Tank)

sew more major clothing items than I buy (dresses!)

knit down my stash

design a knit

1. 19. Cropped Cardi, 2. Koolhaas, 3. Turn a Square, 4. Fetching,

5. Wisteria, 6. Urchin, 7. Star Crossed & Ithacowl, 8. My Dashings,

9. Charlie Bag, 10. Barbie Wig, 11. Simple Shawl, 12. Retro Swing Jacket,

13. Spicy Fitted V-Neck, 14. Cowl Jump, 15. Spring Forward, 16. Shopping Tunic,

17. Clapotis, 18. Cutie Booties, 19. Coachella, 20. Mesh & Rib Pullover,

21. Legwarmers, 22. Matrix Sweater, 23. Dashing Modified, 24. Yamamoto Jacket,

25. Cowl hood, 26. Barbie Mini, 27. Charity Hat, 28. Mike's Socks

Cable Luxe Tunic Update!

2008-12-28T14:23:00.002-05:00

CLT WIP Side
Originally uploaded by wzrdreams

So this is were I was yesterday. Then I ripped back about 6 inches and eliminated the last round of increases. I also added 1 purl stitch before that last cable at the edge so the spacing would match the ther purl sections. As of this morning I am past this point again. I love knitting this thing! It's not boring and not hard to keep track of the cable rows. Because I am knitting the pieces flat from the yoke my rapid progress is very visible. If I had knit this in the round (as many of the other people in the KAL are doing) I know my progress would appear more slow. Normally I love in the round construction, but this time I am glad I'm not monkeying with the pattern (too much). I have about 6 more inches to go on the back piece before I start on the front or sleeves.

Gifted Just in Time!

2008-12-19T20:33:00.014-05:00

Pattern: Koolhaas Hat

by Jared Flood
Interweave Knits Holiday 2007
Yarn: Cascade 220
Needles: Clover Bamboo Sz 6 & 8 16" circular

I finally got a chance to give the Koolhaas to the Boy and just in time! We got our first real snow storm today at about 10:30 am. BTW, www.msn.com is a TERRIBLE source for weather news. This morning they had me convinced that it would be partially cloudy with a chance of evening rain with snow TOMORROW. Hah! I guess I'll believe anything when I'm under caffeinated. Luckily I wore rain appropriate boots. And it did "rain" a bit this evening. If by rain you mean the snow was melting as it was falling. The good thing is that (fingers crossed) it will all be melted away by tomorrow. That's what I'm hoping anyway. I have a hair appointment tomorrow and a bunch of christmas shopping to do, all of which will not be helped by patches of black ice. You hear me G? NO BLACK ICE PLEASE.

Oh! Almost forgot.... I made some videos last night of my 2nd Koolhaas to show how I cable without the needle.

I think I do it differently than what most people do and it's hard to describe and pictures only show so much.

I'm not able to embed here right now for some reason, so if you need to know, follow these links: 1/1 RPC, 1/1 LPC

Koolhaas Hat

2008-12-17T22:57:00.002-05:00

Koolhaas Hat 1
Originally uploaded by mikehodge47

A WIP when this picture was taken, this hat is DONE and the next one is on the needles. I guess I liked knitting it after all. This one is for the boy, the current one is for ME.

The key to enjoying this pattern is knowing how to cable without a needle. From what I gleaned from all the helpful Ravelrs, I think I have a somewhat unusual way of cabling without a needle. I don't let any stitches dangle in mid-air off a needle. If I can get the boy to help before I finish the current one I'll try to take pictures to show how I accomplish this.

Pattern is Koolhaas (IK) by Jared Flood.
Yarn is Cascade 220, both hats. This one is a medium heather grey, and mine is a deep heather blue tinged with teal.
Needles: sz 6 & 8

Taj Mahal Hotel

2008-11-29T01:05:00.002-05:00

Taj Mahal Hotel
Originally uploaded by wzrdreams

The Taj Hotel is just down the block from the Sea Palace hotel where I stayed in Mumbai in February 2007. The Sea Palace was far more modest than the glorious Taj. At the time, I was mildly jealous of the Taj guests. I bet they had more toilet paper and no cats hanging out of the ceiling. I thought that if I ever get a chance to go back to Bombay, I'd like to stay at the Taj.

Luxe Cable Progress

2008-11-24T20:09:00.004-05:00

CLT Yoke Front
Originally uploaded by wzrdreams

Well there it is! Picking up the stitches wasn't as annoying as I thought it would be. All the angst was wasted on procrastination. Once my stitches were picked up an a satisfying manner it was another hour of idle tv watching and the yoke was done!

Picture of the back seam is here.

CableLuxeYoke2

2008-11-22T13:47:00.002-05:00

CableLuxeYoke2
Originally uploaded by wzrdreams

Yup, I like the second version better (on the right).
My plan was to graft the CB seam together, but that turned out to be confusing and beyond my skills, so I cast off the end and used the tail at the beginning to graft the provisional CO live stitches to the bound off edge. It's neat enough and the seam isn't bulky or ugly. Why didn't I take a picture of that? Oh well.... later.

Now I have to pick up the garter yoke stitches. I'm not especially looking forward to it. I've tried a few times already with unsatisfactory results.... but it's the weekend so I'm going to dedicate some quiet attention to it.

Current WIP

2008-11-06T00:46:00.005-05:00

I am so so so very happy about the results of the election!

But so is everyone and there is knitterly stuff to talk about so I'll skip it.

First, some obligatory Rhinebeck pics. I mostly took pictures of the animals because my hands were otherwise occupied in the yarn barns:

happy sheep

pretty trees

Nishanna, Shannon, Me, and Laura

It was mad fun. I wish it had lasted longer. We'd been planning that trip since our knitting group started meeting last December. I didn't go crazy with the purchases... I made it out of there with 1000 yards of Mohair, 3 skeins of fingering weight merino, 1.5 oz of roving (BUT I DON'T SPIN!!), a leather handle, a bag of Maple cotton candy and $15 worth of goat cheese. We went to the Ravelry party afterwards & met up with some of our other Brooklyn friends, made some knew acquaintances and ate Bob cupcakes. I also stalked a version of my current WIP....

My Current Wip:

I'm working on the Cable Luxe Tunic from Lion Brand. This is the yoke. I knit 19 repeats which gave me 45" unblocked, 53" blocked. Ripped back 2 repeats to get to the necessary 47" (size M). BUT - as much as this looks like the pattern picture, it bothers me that it doesn't look like the cable used on the yoke of the maxi version. This version has a right/left. The maxi version is more symmetrical. This bothers me more than it should and I'm contemplating starting over again. Gggrrrrrr! If I do start over, I could start with a provisional cast on and graft the center back seams together.... knitting buddy Eve's suggestion. What would you do?

Quick and Catch Up

2008-10-17T21:29:00.003-04:00

I can't believe Rhinebeck is tomorrow! I also can't believe I haven't blogged in a while since I've been quite knitterly lately. I'll blame it on my lack of decent pictures. In any case, I hope to have a whole lot of sheep and wooly goodness to share the next time I post so I'd better cover a least some of what September was all about.

I knit some socks for the BF's birthday. Started on Labor day when my college roommate and her BF were in town. This is trekking XXL. I think it was actually the first skein of sock yarn I ever bought, and it's definitely the most masculine. I slipped a pair of vintage cuff links (found at the Brooklyn Flea) into each toe and sewed up a quick little silk gift bag to deliver it all in. Sadly, this is the only picture I have.

I spent a few weekends making variations of spinach quiche. My favorite was this one with mushrooms, ham, mozzarella, cheddar and a sweet potato frie crust. Yuuummmy. I am now on a cheese diet that I will gleefully break at Rhinebeck if there is any tasty goat cheese.

I took off of work on my birthday and met the BF up at the Guggenheim. We saw the Bourgeois exhibit. (I think her art falls into the art as therapy variety.) Then we headed over to central park and relaxed until the sun started to disappear. We could see leaves here and there had turned brown and where falling. I started a new sweater..... Stephanie Japel's Spicy Fitted V Neck (more on that later when I get decent pictures.)

And then there was Stitch in Pitch. My BF came along and took this wonderful photo of me and some of my knitting group. From Left to Right: Me, Shannon, and Laura. I'm tinking back stitches on the SFVNECK because the pattern requires patience and understanding. Laura waswearing her lovely Arwen cardigan and Shan was making headway on her February Lady sweater. We stuck it out through an hour of rain before heading home. The BF stayed and watched the Mets win in the ninth inning.
These girls and I along with a few fabulous others in our knittin group will all be up at Rhinebeck tomorrow. I hope I spot some of my favorite bloggers there. If you spot me, do say hello. I think I'll be wearing this:

Possible with a green Foliage beret and a grey cardigan that is not Linden.

I <3 Burdastyle

2008-08-27T22:51:00.005-04:00

I just got to go to an open studio/party at the Burdastyle office! The purpose for the party was to celebrate the site reaching the 100,000 member mark. in case you haven't heard of it, Burdastyle.com is a website that produces open source (=copyright free) sewing patterns and functions as am online sewing community.

The founders Nora and Benedikta are very sweet and enthusiastic! They are basically running this site with a very small staff and a lot of creative energy so the open studio was an opportunity for them to meet some local members and talk about the site and our crafting habits, wants and needs. They even convinced me to talk on camera a bit... terrifying, huh? One of my favorite parts about the open studio was being able to look at all their samples up close to see the finishing techniques and feel the fabrics they used. I also got to see some of the new design ideas for the upcoming months... exciting stuff.

In addition to meeting the Burdastyle staff, it was a good opportunity for me to meet and mingle with other members and indie craft types. One girl looked very familiar to me and I soon realized that it was lalalayla, whose projects I was admiring just yesterday. Not so coincidentally, Burdastyle is in the same building in Brooklyn as Etsy so a lot of the Etsy staff was there. I met Anda and her adorable baby Sidonie (of dress and skirt fame!). Quite a few people there had garments named after them which was amusing.

Anyway, I had a lovely time and I got just the motivation I need to finish my 3 (yes, 3) Burdastyle WIPs so I can post pictures and be a more involved member of the online sewing community. Hopefully I'll be able to post something successful soon.

Fall Knitting Ideas

2008-08-22T21:11:00.007-04:00

I don't know about y'all, but I love me some Marc Jacobs.

Here's a pretty sweater from his Fall 2008 Ready to Wear collection.

Let's have a closer look....

You know, Marc really is a genius, but I think I could come up with that sweater too...

Oh look, here is that honeycomb stitch pattern!
Now, to find a suitable sweater pattern to hack... This could work.

All one would have to do is eliminate the cables, add the honeycomb stitch pattern all over and change the collar & hem to have ribbing.

Here's another MJ sweater I like. Chunky & raglan, yum!

I could really see myself making this one. I'm a sucker for chunky fast knits.

Here's the pattern I'd hack for it.

*All the pics that are NOT Marc Jacobs are all from www.lionbrand.com.

She knits too!

2008-08-21T20:19:00.001-04:00

Original Ann's new sweater
Originally uploaded by _rebekka

This gorgeous sweater was designed and knit by a very talented photographer in Iceland. You may have seen her amazing photos on flickr.

The Paul Poiret Pattern Puzzle

2008-08-19T22:34:00.010-04:00

Last summer the Costume Institute exhibition at the Metropolitan Museum of Art featured an amazing collection of clothing by Paul Poiret.

I didn't know much about Poiret prior to seeing that exhibit and since I'm not very eloquent and this isn't an essay for credit I'll just say it was awesome and beautiful and I loved it. The illustrations and the colors and the silhouettes where amazing. The show made me want to go home and paint with my watercolors and drape myself in yards of silk charmeuse.

My favorite part of the exhibit was this wrap dress, which has stuck in my mind ever since. I think it is because I had a "one-peice pattern" project when I was a fashion student. My dress was similar in some ways... it was a wrap with a simple front closure and pleating across the waist, but Poiret's dress is far and away better than mine.... (giggle) I think I used a plaid!

At the exhibit, this dress was displayed behind a fancy shmancy screen and there was a hologram projection that showed how the piece was draped in 3-D. Very cool. Someday I might drape it for fits and giggles, but in the meantime my antsy left brain has been thinking about what the pattern should look like and I have come up with this:

There is a back and a front torso sloper in gray. The red lines represent slashing and spreading to close out the darts. The blue lines are my Poiret style lines. The dashed line across the back waist is meant to be cut and the lower back portion gathered (or pleated, I forget now - how sad) to create a bit of a bustle. The real thing was unlined silk so it had a very bohemian drape.

Now, Poiret didn't draft a pattern, he draped it... and voila, it was fabulous!.... but I like puzzles and if you didn't get a chance to see the exhibit's super cool hologram I think the flat pattern explains it pretty well.

Friday Night Knits

2008-08-09T15:20:00.011-04:00

I rushed home on Friday to finish up my first Ravelympics project.

Pattern: Twinkle Shopping Tunic

Yarn: 4 Skeins Lion Brand Thick & Quick; Color: Plum

Needles: Sz 17 Circulars

Team Hopelessly Over Committed, Event WIP Wrestling

I modified the Gauge to fit my yarn. After swatching and some damn math, I used a stitch multiplier of 1.25. That ended up meaning that I could follow the largest size as given in the VK Holiday 2005 version of this sweater. The VK pattern says to knit the first 4 rows in garter, which I did and I like because it doesn't curl at the bottom and you almost can't see it. I also omitted the pockets since I have enough bulk around the tummy (working on that). Other than that, I followed the directions as written in the book.

So as soon as I finished the cowl and wove in all the ends I threw it on (I don't look like a cow in it! JOY!) grabbed my camera and headed for the fire escape for some natural light and a self styled photo shoot.

Everyone's a critic.

Then, I realized I was late for my date so I threw on a dress, inconveniently forgot a sweater and jumped on the N to Coney Island. My next Ravelympics project came with me, but more on that another time.

I met up with the Boy at Nathan's were my newest favorite guilty pleasure is the Lobster Sandwich. Seriously, since they started listing the calories of everything it is incredibly easy to make the "healthy" choice. Besides, when was the last time I had a $6 lobster sandwich? Yum.

So while we were downing our extra large Killians (so much for healthy) we were pleasantly surprised by fireworks! I had no idea they are doing fireworks this year. It thought that all the development talk might have put an end to it and I haven't heard anything otherwise. The boy and I will definitely have to come back again before the end of the month for more. Next we played a round of Shoot-the-Star and then headed over to the Wonder Wheel (no pics - oops).

Should your future need divining. She's waiting by the Wonder Wheel.

Incidentally, it's the Wonder Wheel's 88th birthday this year.

Another Ravelympics project - my 2nd Spring Forward Sock. Team Hopelessly-Over- Committed, for Event Wip Wrestling. YES, I always carry 2 projects with me at all times. Variety is the spice of life.

And lastly, what's thrilling, costs a dollar, and "don't GITMO better" ??

Help me! I don't know what to do!

2008-07-22T00:25:00.003-04:00

I am nothing if I am not indecisive. It's a flaw of mine.

I bought a bunch of colors for the Confectionary tank and this is my swatch.

In case anyone who might be reading this hasn't already seen it on my Ravelry page, the yarn is Lion Brand Cotton-Ease in Stone, Lake, Turquoise, Violet, & Plum. I love that the colors are analogous, cool, and have a sort of ombre thing going on, but I do not dig the stone (light grey) next to the plum. It's too abrupt. I thought I'd add a cool pink to the palette to bridge the tonal gap. I added Blossom and to my project stash and I thought/think it looks pretty good. I decided to simply insert the Blossom between the Stone and the Plum and knit this pretty baby up.

I cast on (while watching Bikini or Bust - how appropriate) and knit a bunch of repeats. Then I decide that I don't like the Blossom after all. The tone isn't deep enough to please my eye... and the added pink next to the purple is looking a little saccharine. (If Cactus and Lime had only looked better I would have taken the tank in the green/blue/purple direction.)

I ripped out several repeats and decided to re-think my color pattern. I REALLY dig my swatch.... except for the Stone on Plum action. I decided to focus on what I liked about my swatch... the ombre-like order of the colors... and I've decided to have the colors vibrate back and forth between the Stone & the Plum. I'll use Stone for the trim which will help to minimizing the effect of the purples. Great, I love it.

I knit one half a repeat.... then I realize that I started with Lake... and I want the bottom color to be Stone.

I also realize that this tank CURLS at the hem as stockinette only does (duh, Grace) and even though the project pics Show this, I don't like it.

Incidentally, I am very critical.... that might also be a flaw.

So do I frog completely and start over with Stone?

If so, should I knit a few rounds in Garter to make a firm bottom trim?

Do I proceed as is and pick up and knit a Stone border after the front and back are sewn together? Should it be garter? Or perhaps a short ribbed band?

I am paralyzed by indecision.

And since I can't decide if I should rip or knit, I switched to my neglected Bella Blouse.... which had previously caught me in the indecision trap... and I bravely cast on for the body in the round. I think I am in desperate need for some simple cotton stockinette for a bit. I'll have to blog about that later though.... I only have sufficient light/time in the morning for pics.

At home steam setting

2008-07-07T19:32:00.001-04:00

This past spring I took a textile painting class at FIT. I didn't get a chance to steam my last project because I painted it on the last day of class, so when I had a chance (read: needed a break from knitting my Mesh/Rib Pullover) I steamed it at home in my kitchen. This is much more involved than it would have been in class, primarily because our kind TA did all the work for us.

Taken in class while painting.

Rolling the painted silk in brown craft paper. Craft paper was purchased at Duane Reade. Blank newsprint would work fine also.

The craft paper wasn't very wide so I had to use 2 pieces over lapped. It was also very curly so I had to use my handy washer weights, my 2 hands and a foot. (I'm impressed that I was able to capture this moment on camera.) I left about a foot of paper at the end (center of the roll) to fold back over the inside edge of the fabric. I was careful to smooth out the fabric as it was rolled so that there won't be any wrinkles or dye transference.

Taped up the seam and the ends. It is important that the paper is permeable to the steam, and there is nowhere for water to splash directly onto the fabric.

I used this old stock pot (that I use ONLY for dyeing) filled about 2 inches with water, and placed my steamer on top of a shallow baking tin for additional lift. Once the water started to boil I coiled my paper wrapped silk and fit it gently in the pot, and was cautious to avoid splashes. I reduced the heat to low, and let steam for 2 hours.

I put a folded kitchen towel under the lid to prevent the condensation from dripping back onto the paper which could cause water marks if water seeped through onto the silk.

I think I did get a water mark or two because in the end the kitchen towel touched a small portion of the paper... but since my painting style is watery and I used some cool salt blending techniques it is hard to notice the spot and it doesn't really look like a mistake. I learn by doing and messing up anyway!

After steaming, I washed the painting in cold water to remove the excess dye. The most important thing I learned from my first project (not shown) is that the fabric/silk must dry so that it does not touch itself. Even when the water runs clear and it looks like all the dye is out, this is very important to avoid dye transference. It was kinda tricky to rig this set up in my bathroom so that the entire piece of fabric touched nothing but the clips. Luckily, silk dries very fast.

Some lovely details.

In case anyone wonders, I was inspired by the Gustav Klimt exhibit at the Neue Gallery - the Adele Bauer-Bloch painting in particular. I think the show is over now... but if it's not, I do recommend seeing Klimt paintings in person. There is a depth of texture in his paintings that simply cannot be seen in a photograph.

I used clear wax batik and gold Jacquard gutta resist, Senelier dyes, and a whole lot of kosher salt. I'm a bit of a control freak and I usually pre-plan projects, but since this was the last day of class I decided I needed to take advantage of the lab time and exercise my right hemisphere. There are things that I like and don't like about this piece, but it was good to get it done fast because I learned a lot that I can use next time.

Favorites on Friday

2008-06-27T21:25:00.001-04:00

I made this lovely little coverlet while in grad school and promptly forgot about it when I moved to NYC. I found it when I was putting away my winter blanket and it looks so much prettier on my bed than the poop colored wool.

This was only my second quilt attempt, and my first success. I only did some basic square knots all over it to keep the layers together. I would love to have it professionally quilted. Any suggestions for where I could get this done the NYC area would be very much appreciated!

Stash Storage!

I got this basket at a street fair on 3rd Ave. I was told that it was made by a woman in West Africa. I love it! It's so pretty, has a lid and handles. All my favorite stash yarn is in it and it is within arms reach from my bed... good in case I have to escape in a fire, but great for yarn dreams.

A Summer FO

2008-06-19T01:22:00.004-04:00

Pattern: Mesh & Rib Short Sleeve Pullover

by Teva Durham: Loop-D-Loop Vol. 2

Size: 38 (My bust is actually 39.5" so -1.5" ease)

Yarn: Silk Light by Signature Collection (discontinued)

Needles: Size 8 Addis Turbos for the body & sleeves;

& size 6 Clover Bamboo Circulars for the neckline ribbing.

Mods: I knit the body 1 inch longer than specified in the pattern. I changed the cast on number for the front because it is my opinion that it was incorrect as written; and I used a button instead of a tie at CF.

What I would do differently were I to do this again: shorten the depth of the keyhole and not bother to knit the body that extra inch. I'm pretty tall, but I didn't really need that inch.

I think this is my 3rd pullover type garment of the year... and I've made quite a few other accessory type things (socks, legwarmers, armwarmers, cowls, hats etc...) but I'm really excited about the bona-fied garments. Those are the ones I can actually wear around to impress people (mainly myself) with my craftiness.

Hello!

2008-06-11T21:19:00.001-04:00

Riding a horse on the beach is some of the best fun.